Sport Climbing versus Trad Climbing

There are two distinct schools of thought in the rock climbing community. A sport climber would happily drill and affix bolts into a cliff face to provide reliable pre-placed protection from falling, while a traditional climber will place protection in the form or cams or wedges while actually leading a climb, subsequently removing them, and not use permanent hardware if at all possible. I have always ascribed to the latter philosophy. Of course, the traditional approach involves a higher degree of risk of serious injury or death in the event of a catastrophic fall... but that is part of the allure.

The joy of climbing for the sport climber is the gymnastic and almost dance-like quality of their movement on the rock or on an indoor manufactured climbing wall. Anything as intrusive as terror while climbing would spoil the moment for the sport climber. Nor are they patient with taking the time for the various wired wedges or a camming devices which must be laboriously placed in cracks for protection. Their intense concentration on technique, endless practice and training, has been a fundamental contributor to incredibly high climbing standards overall.

Each type of ascent on a rock face has its own highly complex system of grading and classification of how climbs should and should not be done. To the non-climber, such passionate attention to detail may seem maddening. If there is one cardinal rule of climbing, it is that one should always attempt to at least climb in the same style as the first ascent, or in a better style. If it all sounds elitest, at least it assures that only the very best can climb at the highest standards in the purest style. The rest of us may only aspire to be more like them.

As with any sport, there are only a few elite individuals, and that status, like everywhere else, is fleeting. It is only a matter of time until someone younger, stronger, or with more courage or imagination comes along to raise the bar. For this reason, rock climbing has developed to an extraordinary degree, even though the majority of rock climbers like myself have no desire to attempt to scale the precariously risky pitches that we admire the best of the best for doing so gracefully.